If you’ve ever been to Hue, Vietnam, you will undoubtedly be amazed by the vast tombs adorned with gold leaf paintings and exquisite carvings of the Nguyen kings. For generations, the people of Hue have always valued their graves when it comes to departing for the eternal realm, to entrust both their physical and spiritual selves. Those in their twilight years in Hue will consider finding a piece of land, often in a high and prominent location, to erect tombs for their descendants when they depart to the other world. And to “admire” the most majestic cemetery in Hue, I invite you to join me in An Bang village.
Located about 36 km from the city of Hue, along the coast, there is a famous fishing village that has attracted many visitors for years despite not being a tourist destination. An Bang village, part of Vinh An commune, Phu Vang district, is known as the “city of tombs” or the “ghost city of An Bang” with its “super tombs”. My village borders An Bang village, so every time I accompany my father back to our ancestral home, I have the opportunity to pass by this cemetery. Sometimes I stop for a long time to admire the majestic tombs resembling castles, intricately crafted no less than the royal tombs. Wandering through the narrow paths amidst the vast realm of the “others,” I never feel any sense of creepiness or chilliness; instead, I feel amazed and curious.
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Lost in the maze
The An Bang Cemetery spans about 40,000 square meters, stretching towards the sea. To date, there are over a thousand tombs ranging from 40 to 400 square meters, with gates towering up to 7-8 meters high. Even the skilled artisans who specialize in building tombs here cannot recall the exact number. The construction cost for each tomb ranges from hundreds of millions to billions of Vietnamese dong, with some costing nearly tens of billions. Some tombs are built, only to be demolished several years later to construct larger ones, each new construction surpassing the grandeur of its predecessor. Dense and overlapping, closely linked one after another, the tombs in various colors and shapes sprawl across the sandy hills, making one feel as if stepping into a profound and mysterious land.
How to get to the “City of Tombs”?
From the city of Hue, there are two directions to reach An Bang village:
- Taking National Highway 49: From Hue, follow National Highway 49 towards Thuan An Beach, then continue along the coastal road for about 30 km to Vinh An commune. Upon arrival, you can ask locals for directions to the cemetery.
- Heading towards Da Nang: From Hue, travel in the direction of Da Nang for approximately 16 km until you reach Thuy Phu commune. At the intersection with Hue bypass road, turn left towards Truong Ha Bridge. After crossing Truong Ha Bridge, turn right into Vinh An commune. From here, you can ask locals for directions to the cemetery.
Additionally, for the convenience of visiting the City of Tombs as well as other famous tourist spots in Hue, a motorbike tour is a perfect choice. With the motorbike tour service in Hue provided by DanangMotorbikeAdventure.com, you can have the best experiences. Book a motorbike tour from Hue to Hoi An today to explore the An Bang cemetery in the most comprehensive way.
Diverse Tomb Architecture
The unique feature of the tomb village lies not only in the scale of the tombs but also in the diverse architectural styles ranging from Buddhist, Christian, to Confucian influences… incorporating distinctive architectural features of tombs in Hue, creatively crafted by artisans according to the wishes of the tomb owners.
In the past, the motifs of the four sacred animals like dragon, unicorn, tortoise, and phoenix were reserved only for kings and emperors, but now you can see them on many tombs here. On the stone steps, these mythical creatures exude both majesty and bravery as they guard the tombs. On the pillars, dragons and phoenixes coil and soar as if flying across the deep blue sky.
There are also sentimental landscape paintings. It seems that the living wish to offer the whole world to the departed. These meticulously crafted ceramic tiles, adorned with various colors, are intricately cut and embossed to form images.
Do you think this is the resting place of the deceased?
With its towering triple gate, panoramic view pavilions, spacious courtyard, and serene rock gardens serving as decorative screens… it’s no different from a noble residence. The closely clustered tombs next to residential houses sometimes make it difficult to distinguish between tombs and shrines.
In addition to this unique cemetery, An Bang also boasts numerous grand ancestral temples. Along the concrete paths weaving through each small neighborhood, it’s easy to come across ancestral temples with closed gates, high walls, only opening during important ancestral anniversaries, and the scent of incense.
Hue, Vietnam is a treasure trove of unique experiences, the more you explore, the more you discover. When visiting Hue, make sure to stop by An Bang village to learn more about this piece of the ancient capital. And don’t forget to utilize the private car rental service with drivers in Hue offered by DanangPrivateCar.com for unforgettable experiences.
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